Kumejima Tsumugi

Kumejima tsumugi is made by hand spinning silk floss from silk cocoons and dyeing them using a unique mud mordant based technique with the abundant use of plant dyes from native species that grow naturally in the islands, such as fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica), tekachi (Rhaphiolepis indica var. umbellata), and hibiscus, or yuna in the Okinawa language. As the oldest type of tsumugi in Japan and also the oldest form of kasuri in Okinawa, Kumejima tsumugi is defined by a durability refined over centuries of traditionally honed technique. Its robust color tones, elegant and supple texture render superior comfort, making it a highly prized fabric.

Origins of Kumejima tsumugi are thought to have begun in the late 15th century, when Donohiya, head of the Ryukyu Kingdom servantry, introduced sericultural techniques from Ming Dynasty China. Advancements in production techniques occurred in the first half of the 17th century, via the contributions of Hiromoto Sakamoto and Kagetomo Tomoyose, two envoys dispatched by the Ryukyu Kingdom. The fabric became an important tribute to be paid in lieu of taxes and was produced under the strict supervision of kingdom officials, a practice that remained until land tax reform was carried out in 1903. Designated as a traditional craft by the prefecture on June 11th, 1974, and as a national traditional craft by the government of Japan on February 17th, 1975, Kumejima tsumugi was recognized as an important intangible cultural property and accorded cultural heritage protection by the government of Japan on September 2nd, 2004.