Okinawa, Island of Crafts
From the 14th to 16th centuries, Okinawa developed a unique traditional culture through trade with mainland Japan, China, and Southeastern Asian countries. This culture has seen the emergence of local crafts that boast an outstanding diversity, integrating many aspects from Okinawa's foreign influences. From the era of the Ryukyu Kingdom to this day, those crafts have continued to be transmitted and developed throughout the prefecture. As a result of this evolution, sixteen types of traditional crafts in Okinawa are now nationally designated, thirteen of which are related to weaving and dyeing. The other three, which are lacquerware, pottery and sanshin, once supported the court culture of the royal Ryukyu dynasty, and remain an integral part of the modern Okinawan culture.
◎ Designated nationally as Traditional Craft
Okinawa, Island of Crafts
From the 14th to 16th centuries, Okinawa developed a unique traditional culture through trade with mainland Japan, China, and Southeastern Asian countries. This culture has seen the emergence of local crafts that boast an outstanding diversity, integrating many aspects from Okinawa's foreign influences. From the era of the Ryukyu Kingdom to this day, those crafts have continued to be transmitted and developed throughout the prefecture. As a result of this evolution, sixteen types of traditional crafts in Okinawa are now nationally designated, thirteen of which are related to weaving and dyeing. The other three, which are lacquerware, pottery and sanshin, once supported the court culture of the royal Ryukyu dynasty, and remain an integral part of the modern Okinawan culture.
Kijoka no Bashōfu
The woven banana fiber cloth of Kijoka
Dating back to the 13th century, bashōfu fabric is made by hand-spinning fibers extracted from the bark of the ito bashō banana tree into threads which are dyed with plant dyes such as Ryukyu indigo and Yeddo hawthorn (Rhaphiolepis umbellata), and then weaved into fabric. This woven fabric is suitable to the climate in Okinawa and has been valued by locals since ancient times for its lightness and airiness.
Kumejima Tsumugi
The pongee of Kume Island
Kumejima tsumugi originated 500 years ago with the introduction of silk farming techniques from China. It is Okinawa’s oldest form of tsumugi (pongee) weaving. Taking advantage of the region’s characteristics, Kumejima tsumugi is produced preserving traditional techniques such as the use of plant and mud dyes as well as cloth-beating. It is highly valued for its durability and comfort.
Miyako Jōfu
The woven ramie cloth of the Miyako Islands
Miyako jōfu originated in the second half of the 16th century with the use of wild ramie for weaving. Using fine yarns and featuring exquisite kasuri patterns, it is made with traditional methods such as Ryukyu indigo dyeing as well as hand spinning and weaving. Miyako jōfu is an iconic material for summer kimonos, valued as a luxurious navy blue fabric.
Yuntanza Hanaui
The fabric from Yomitan with raised geometric patterns * "Ui" means weaving in Okinawan dialect
Originating in the 15th century, Yuntanza hanaui was once designated as the official fabric of the royal administration of Ryukyu, and common people outside of Yomitan were not permitted to wear it. Reminiscent of the tropics, it is a fabric made of raw silk and cotton; it has geometric patterns expressed with colored threads and is decorated with kasuri (Japanese variant of the ikat technique) as well as stripes and plaid patterns.
Yuntanza Minsā
The woven sash of Yomitan
Yuntanza minsā originated around the same time as Yuntanza hanaui and demonstrates strong influences from Southeast Asia. This ribbed fabric is made of cotton and patterns in relief are woven into the warp using tools such as bamboo skewers. The word minsā means a narrow belt or sash.
Chibana Hanaori
The raised pattern weaving of Chibana * "Ori" means weaving
Chibana hanaori was originally made in the village of Misato (today a part of Okinawa City) as clothing for festivals and formal occasions. Its production techniques and processes are thought to have been established by the late 19th century. While hanaori weaving usually features horizontal patterns, Chibana hanaori features patterns that are woven vertically.
Ryukyu Bingata
The flagship dyed fabric of Okinawa
Developed in the 15th century, bingata is a traditional dyeing method unique to Okinawa. Two types of techniques are used for its creation: stencil dyeing and rice paste resist dyeing. Bingata is divided into two different categories: the eponymous bingata ("crimson") category which is colorfully hand dyed on cotton, silk, bashō banana fiber cloth, etc., using pigments and plant dyes, and the aigata ("indigo") category, which is dip dyed with Ryukyu indigo. Each style has its own elegant charms.
Shuri ori
The various woven textiles of Shuri
Shuri, which thrived as the capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom, was strongly influenced by Southeast Asia and China around the 15th century – making it home to a unique weaving tradition expressed through kasuri, hanaori, rōton ori, hanakura ori and minsā among others. Shuri ori is prized for its design which embodies an air of royal refinement and produces a gentle feeling on the skin thanks to its handweaving process.
Ryukyu Lacquerware
The traditional lacquerware from Okinawa
Ryukyu lacquerware originates in the end of the 14th century. Using woods such as the coral tree (Erythrina variegata) and Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonicus) among others, Ryukyu lacquerware features natural lacquer from the lacquer tree (Toxicodendron vernicifluum), and produces a deep red color which is not seen in lacquerware from other parts of the globe. Items are decorated with a wide variety of techniques such as raden (inlaid mother of pearl), chinkin (gold inlay), hakue (silver or gold foil inlay), or the Okinawan original tsuikin (lacquer overlay).
Tsuboya Pottery
The Okinawan pottery of Tsuboya
Tsuboya pottery originated in 1682 when three kilns, Chibana, Wakuta and Takaraguchi were combined and relocated to present-day Tsuboya. Products are classified into arayachi and jōyachi. The former consists mostly of unglazed and relatively large works while the latter is glazed and decorated with uniquely Okinawan patterns.
Sanshin
Okinawan three-stringed instrument
The sanshin is a three-stringed instrument said to have evolved from the sanxian, introduced from China in the 14th century. Developed in a unique way by a master craftsman at a government facility called Kaizuri Bugyōsho, it is today an essential instrument in the cultural and performing arts in Okinawa. The neck is made of hard wood such as ebony and the body is covered with snake skin such as from a python.
Ryukyu Kasuri
The ikat of Ryukyu
Ryukyu kasuri began in the year 1611 with the introduction of cotton seeds and weaving skills from the Satsuma Province of Japan. It comprises around 600 kinds of geometric patterns, many of which portray scenes of nature and everyday life. It is made with silk, cotton and ramie. Ryukyu kasuri is known for its simple and noble style.
Haebaru Hanaori
The raised pattern weaving of Haebaru
Haebaru hanaori comprises four different types of hanaori weaving: ryomen uki hanaori, which features raised patterns on both sides of the cloth (such as "Kyan hachimai" and "tachirī" for example), yoko uki, which displays patterns woven horizontally into the textile (such as "kwan kwan hanaori"), nuitori ori which features patterns that appear embroidered (such as "chippugasā"), and twill-woven ayaori (such as "Haebaru shamon ori").
Yaeyama Jōfu
The woven ramie cloth of the Yaeyama Islands
According to historical records, Yaeyama jōfu was used in the early 17th century for offerings to the Satsuma Province. Produced from ramie, it features kasuri patterns that are either dyed with a tie-dye technique or by rubbing stretched yarn bundles with a spatula. As dyes, plants such as Ryukyu indigo and kūru (Dioscorea cirrhosa) are used. After weaving, the fabric is soaked in seawater to fix the colors. It is a type of cloth for the summer with motifs appearing to float over white fabric.
Ishigaki Textile Cooperative
Taketomi Textile Cooperative
Yaeyama Minsā
The woven narrow cotton cloth of the Yaeyama Islands
Yaeyama minsā is a kasuri pattern cloth made from cotton and dyed with plants such as Indian indigo, Ryukyu indigo, fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica) and kūru (Dioscorea cirrhosa). A ribbed type of fabric displaying tropical bright colors, Yaeyama minsā is mainly used to produce kimono sashes, neckties and bags. Alternating patterns of four and five squares, its kasuri design holds the meaning of "wishing to be together for eternity".
Taketomi Textile Cooperative
Ishigaki Textile Cooperative
Yonaguni ori
The various woven textiles of Yonaguni Island
The exact origin of Yonaguni ori is unknown, however it is mentioned in records dating back to the end of the 15th century. There are four weaving types in Yonaguni: Yonaguni hanaori, Yonaguni dutatī (garment made of 4 pieces of cloth), Yonaguni kaganubū (narrow sash), and Yonaguni shidadī (hand towel). The materials used in the production of those include silk, cotton and ramie, which are colored with local plant dyes.
Ryukyu Glass
The art of glassmaking in Okinawa
Ryukyu glass began with the production of items such as oil lamp chimneys and prescription bottles in the second half of the 19th century. After World War II, it took off with the popularity of glass souvenirs among locally-stationed U.S. forces personnel. Today, it is highly valued in handmade daily necessities such as glass tableware and vases.
Woodcrafting・Kinzaiku
The art of crafting wooden items(pictured right)Okinawan goldsmithing(pictured left)
Woodcrafting(pictured right)
After 1975, the art of crafting wooden items began to thrive using wood from the Okinawan pine (Pinus luchuensis) and itajii (Castanopsis sieboldii) trees. Thanks to advances in woodworking technology and innovations in coating techniques, products featuring tree bark have come to be used in daily life.
Kinzaiku(pictured left）
During the Ryukyu Kingdom era (1429-1879), many goldsmiths established their workshops near the Shureimon gate of the Shuri castle, where they were called kanzēku. Today, traditional goldsmithing items such as jīfā (Japanese hairpins), musubi yubiwa and fusa yubiwa (types of rings) have been passed down and are still being actively crafted.
Ūjizome
The art of crafting wooden items(pictured right)Okinawan goldsmithing(pictured left)
Developed in the context of a village renewal project launched in 1989, Tomigusuku ūjizome is a type of textile that uses Okinawan sugarcane arrows and leaves as dyes. Depending on the season of harvest, the hue of the sugarcane dyes changes slightly, allowing for a characteristic natural feeling and color.
Urasoe ori
The woven textiles of Urasoe
Relying on silkworms fed with locally grown mulberry, Urasoe ori is characterized by its manufacturing process which is entirely operated by a single weaver, starting from thread harvesting to dyeing and weaving. Contrarily to mechanically produced threads, the carefully hand-spun threads of Urasoe ori contain air which gives them a fluffy, pleasant texture, resulting in a fabric that is rich and comfortable to wear.